It takes three days before I can actually look out the window without getting all weepy. The contrast between Jakarta (the pollution, the traffic, and the hoards of people/motorcycles) and the beauty of Tuscany is overwhelming. I'm sure I would have appreciated Italy at any time in my life. But coming from Indonesia, I ache to see the green vineyards, blue sky, and rolling hills. The land folds hill to hill as far as I can see. And the tiny towns of Sieci and Molino Del Piano nestle in the creases of the hills. The clean air fills my lungs, and my soul is nourished just to walk and look.
The view from our villa comes at a small price. It is perched on top a very steep hillside (or a mountain, as the kids referred to it). The nearest town requires a serious one and a half mile trek through gorgeous countryside a là Van Trap style. Madi, Elise, and I ride bikes down to the local grocery store on our second morning. We go a little overboard on buying fresh produce. The peaches! The nectarines! The plums! It is impossible to find ripe peaches, nectarines, and plums in Indonesia, so it has been over a year since we have enjoyed them.
Because of our enthusiasm for the fruit, our backpacks are heavy. By the time we are half way back up to our villa, sweat literally drips down my chin. Still, we all agree that the peaches are worth it.
Here we are on one of our multiple hikes down to the train station in Sieci.
CJ's frequent and favorite "rides" down to the train. "Go faster Daddy! I like to bounce!" she encourages.
We wake each morning, not to the chattering of birds, but to a chorus. It is as though the birds there just know how good they have it.
The smell of jasmine outside our villa perfumes the air. Madi stops just to breathe deeply.
My husband is in heaven as everyone here in Tuscany seems to have a garden. We stop multiple times a day so he can admire vegetable gardens and watch Italians ride their tractors.
We make our way through the narrow streets of Florence and turn the final corner to see the Duomo for the first time. Huge. Majestic. The dome and cathedral rise above the rest of the city in dramatic proportions. The gothic detail on the cathedral resembles deliciate lace, and yet it is made of stone.
CJ insists that she climb all the steps to the top of the Duomo (this was no short climb!). She does a fist-pump dance when she completes her goal.
The view from the top is amazing. Definitely worth the 436 steps. While at the top, the bells of all the churches in Florence chime ten o'clock. We are surrounded with music.
The crypt under the cathedral is fascinating - a recent archeological find. We get our first glimpse at human bones displayed in gilded boxes. I love CJ's reaction:
Our first Gelato is in the piazza outside the cathedral. I have lemon. It is like eating cold lemonade. And while I am not a huge fan of ice cream, I am immediately converted to Gelato and pledge to have at least one each day we are here.
My favorite moment of the day is at lunch. We sit at Cafe Mastrociliegia in small Piazza San Pier Maggiore just East of the Duomo. Purple and white flowers drip from window boxes on the surrounding buildings. I dine on the most delicious pizza (how can tomatoes, cheese, and basil taste so fresh?) and salmon risotto. Then I hear the sound of an accordion - the quintessential sound of Italy. A street musician stands in the square and serenades us...and I am not only in Italy...I am in heaven.
I LOVE your description of the Duomo - it does like like lace. I have so many photos of it. And I felt like I was at the same restaurant eating that unbelievably delicious pizza (only thin crust for me after our trip). Makes me want to return someday.
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